Nativo Grenache

Nativo 
Grenache 
2018 
Swartland 

Full disclosure: This wine was made by my very good friend Lieze Norval. However, I’d love this even if I didn’t already love her. 

If there were a third friend in Emma Jane Unsworth’s novel Animals, which is filled with feral cats, debauchery and laddered pantyhose, it would be the Nativo Grenache. Mascara crumbed and secondhand leopard print coat off one shoulder, lipstick-ringed cigarette gesticulating in the air, she’s the girl that brings in the best kind of 4am. All goji berries, dried cranberries and figs with a swirl of molasses, she might be up past her bedtime, but you’d still follow her into the night blindly.

Pair with: A wild femme to the end, the Nativo Grenache is all about hedonism and the near painful need to keep the party going. 

Trade Winds Rosé

 

This piece was originally published by Port2Port. Photo curtesy of Port2Port as well, because if not, why not.

Trade Winds 
Rosé
NV
Western Cape 

My roommate’s favourite movie is Mamma Mia! Without exaggeration, I think she’s watched it once every three months since it came out. I’ve done the maths — that’s 64 times (conservative estimate). Don’t ask me what it is, but there’s something about watching Meryl Streep in dungarees twirling through the laundry of some small Greek island that she just can’t get enough of. Having been in the vicinity of some of these devotional viewings, I have to admit once you get over the fact that one 90 minute movie can contain 18 ABBA covers, I do see an appeal. Camp joy with the Aegean Sea as your backdrop, discovering possible shared genetics with Pierce Brosnan, not to mention the prospect that you too could open a hotel in Greece. Drinking the Trade Winds Rosé is like being transported to the grown up Pinterest version of this aesthetic.

With a nose of grapefruit and purest Pink Lady apples, the Trade Winds Rosé beckons you to lunches under pergolas that gently stretch until long past sunset, while starched sheets idly billow in the breeze. Its palate of white dessert peaches, strawberries and crisp watermelon will have you reaching for your passport and simultaneously googling best seaside getaways. Not needing to be the centre of attention, the Trade Winds Rosé does a far subtler job of being the best possible supporting act, as its savoury, saline core ensures that any dish is enhanced and any mood buoyed.

𝐏𝐚𝐢𝐫 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡: Your island fantasy, complete with espadrilles and possible wedding, as there’s no true rosé holiday fantasy without some sort of nuptials (yours, or somebody else’s). And if that fails, there’s always your roommate’s favourite musical romcom. After all, what else is Valentine’s Day for?

 

Bloemcool Berg en Dal Oupa se Wingerd

 

Bloemcool
Berg en Dal Oupa se Wingerd 
2022 
Piekenierskloof, Citrusdal Mountain
  

The Bloemcool Berg en Dal Oupa se Wingerd makes me question a lot of things about myself. Such as, can I be turned on by a wine? (Um…yes?) Why do I suddenly wish I was on the back of a very muscular man’s horse in a flowy white dress riding through the red hills of a Western? (Romance novels and the whims of my libido??) Why do I feel so internally conflicted with this image? (Because maybe my third-wave feminism hasn’t caught up with my fourth-wave feminism and I don’t have to be held to the realities of inner thigh chafe in my fantasies???). It’s all getting rather hot and steamy in my kitchen, to be honest. Might need to crack a window. 

If the Berg en Dal could be anyone, it would be the hot lumberjack from Instagram, teaching us how to untie our belts with one hand, while grasping our ovaries in the other. Chiseled and problematically sexy in its rugged masculinity.

Oozing cherries, blackberries and the smell of worn brown leather couches complete with matching cigar accoutrement, there’s a meatiness to this wine that makes you want to burrow down like a truffle pig in its densely packed layers. Olive brine, salty liquorice, spicy white pepper, just a hint of fynbos…its all there in one heady pheromone-inducing stroke. In the words of my by now wide-eyed roommate Maia: “This wine is undressing me…” 

Pair with: Yourself. Seriously. That’s all you need. 

 

Roodekrantz 1983 Chenin Blanc

 

1983 Chenin Blanc 
Roodekrantz 
2022
Swartland 

Ok, I’ll admit it, this empty bottle has been sitting on my desk for the past six months. I’d meant it as an urgent reminder, but like all things collected on my desk, it melted into a complex ecosystem of empty Christmas biscuit tin (ca. 2022), a pile of receipts (November’s invoices) and empty coffee cups (last week’s). And then it was the day before Christmas; I’d spent two days imprinting myself on the couch ploughing through Wellness by Nathan Hill while listening to records and had decided that pants were superfluous to general living. It was as good a time as any. The roommates were gathered and a second bottle was cracked. 

Every social group has one. The friend who might as well be the atmospheric smoke machine in the corner. They merge the cliques, tell the best jokes, get the dance floor going, have the perfect playlist queued as stand-in DJ, and somehow manage to convince everyone to go for a sunrise swim. Naked. In short, they are all that I aspire to be, but only manage for approximately 45 minutes every 9 months or so — they are THE VIBE. The 1983 Chenin Blanc is that vibe. 

Brimming with yellow cling peaches, pears and a spekboom greenness, the 1983 is like falling into a freshly laundered down duvet — all the comfort, zero responsibilities. Oozing sunshine with hints of grapefruit and naartjie, this wine is a people pleaser without the faff, but take a moment from the party to sit with it on the couch and it’ll whisper some secret depths that feel like they were meant just for you.

Pair with: The kind of wine you slosh into people’s glasses whilst on the garden’s makeshift dance floor with a rollie hanging out the corner of your mouth, sunglasses slipping down your nose. Then take it your boyfriend’s mother’s house afterwards. 

 

Catherine Marshall Riesling

 

Catherine Marshall
Riesling
2022
Elgin
 

Reverberating like the clear ping of a tuning fork, the Catherine Marshall Riesling bursts onto the scene with a new tekkie squeak. Buzzing with the tart zing of limes and the telltale fresh-tube-of-tennis-balls Riesling aroma, this is a wine that struts, whirls and pops. Prickling on the tongue with near painful aliveness, the Catherine Marshall Riesling is a wine able to turn any kitchen into a multi-coloured strobe lit dance floor.

Pair with: Staging your own music video to the entire Jesse Ware That! Feels Good! album, whilst draping yourself around doorframes and across staircase banisters beclad in a long string of pearls for full effect. (Would highly recommend a Thai green curry for post music video recovery — chef’s kiss of a combo.)

 

Tierhoek Chenin Blanc

 

Tierhoek
Chenin Blanc
2020
Piekenierskloof, Citrusdal Mountain
 

Let’s turn back the clock a few years to 2020. The depths of Covid. I’d only just stopped taking walks around the block with a can of beans in a shopping bag to justify my outside excursions, alcohol bans had revealed new bulk buying and hoarding depths to my personality, and I’d resigned myself as a bread baking failure (the challah of early lockdown had been repurposed as the household’s weapon of choice against intruders). But for now, I was on holiday! Making up for our 6-week separation earlier that year (two highways and one military check point between us didn’t make for easy lockdown visits) my boyfriend and I were on our way to the Cederberg. And because I’m me and he’s him, we were taking a two-hour detour to visit a wine farm I’d wanted to try — Tierhoek. Needless to say, because I’m me, he ended up repacking the entire car in their parking lot to fit the five cases I’d purchased (see, I told you about my fear-spawned bulk buying…). 

The Tierhoek Chenin Blanc has become one of my go-to Chenins. It has an apple-cheeked wholesomeness to it, like a Dutch postcard milkmaid who bakes delicious fresh bread (not destined for the armoury) and has the strength to lift a cow with her pinkie. While previous vintages have tasted more like honied Rooibos iced tea from the tea plantings on the farm (a fact I’m sticking to, despite hours spent by the patient soil scientists at VinPro explaining to me this is, in fact, not how terroir works), the 2020 is leaner — this a milkmaid who’s embraced the bicep curl. With a nose of Swiss müsli and oatmeal alongside its giveaway Rooibos, there’s a savoury saltiness at its core (a product of the bicep curl, I’m sure). This is a wine that believes in long walks in the fresh air, the panacea of baked goods, and bench pressing the odd cow or two before dawn.

Pair with: Weekends away where days are filled with rusks and tin mugs of Rooibos tea. Substitute Rooibos tea as required.  

 

Oldenburg Chardonnay

 

Oldenburg Vineyards 
Chardonnay 
2021
Stellenbosch
 

I used to write off Chardonnay as an old lady wine. Not because I thought it the go-to for the coiffed and chunkily bejewelled, but because it’s what I imagined an old lady would taste like if you marinaded her in butter for a few weeks, allowing her the odd butterscotch sweetie for sustenance from the depths of her linty handbag. It was Patty and Selma from The Simpsons in wine form. Cigarette included. 

And then came the Oldenburg Chardonnay. 

With a parting of the clouds, this Chardonnay made me see the proverbial light. Like watching a ’50s Vegas burlesque dancer ringed by perfectly choreographed feather-fanned chorus girls, I was hooked. With gossamer delicacy the Oldenburg Chardonnay swan-dives down the tongue and into the heart. Grapefruit bitterness and butterscotch (because, hey, Chardonnay) swirls in an almost peach syrup viscosity, tinged with a herbal edge and smokey finish. It’s the kind of wine that makes me wish I owned a blue feathered dressing gown and ordered dirty martinis.  

Pair with: Over the top dinner parties where you’ve cooked things with all the curlicued names. Salade Niçoise! Soufflé! Crème brûlée! Will you be debuting a new found love for French cigarettes? Possibly. Will you exude the confidence of a blue feathered dressing gown owner? Most definitely. 

 

Kleinood Tamboerskloof Katharien Rosé

 

This piece was originally published by Port2Port.

Kleinood
Tamboerskloof Katharien Rosé

2022
Stellenbosch

Now, I could be a crazy sniffing wine person wildly attributing aromas to anything that so much as brushes past my olfactory senses, but I am convinced that January has a smell. It’s a mixture of holiday independence, sunscreen encrusted beach bags and pheromones wafting off the tanned bodies of all the Capetonians who have invariably shed their winter cuddle buddies in search of steamy summer flings. In fact, if one could bottle January, it’s unclear on whether I’d wear it or simply huff it with the eagerness of a fourth grader discovering UHU glue.

If you left my January scented bottle uncorked and wafting like a room diffuser, the Tamboerskloof Katharien Rosé is the bottle to take you by the hand and follow me down this rabbit hole. As pure and delicate as its pale ballet shoe colour would suggest, a pink haze of strawberries and red cherries descends, luring you into summer’s endless possibility. Yet, its bracingly crisp Pink Lady apple crunch texture makes it clear this wine isn’t just about flimsy summer dresses and daisy chains, but has the cheekiness to hold its own should the evening move to weightier topics.

Pair with: Endless summer afternoons that make you forget supper time was two hours ago, with chins sticky from giant watermelon slices and ladybirds traversing the backs of tanned thighs.

 

Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc

 

This piece was originally published by Port2Port.

Ken Forrester
Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc

2021
Stellenbosch

Ah Christmas. ’Tis the most family-filled time of the year. Someone’s stressing about the symmetry of the Christmas tree decorations, while one aunt has realised she’s severely under-catered on the potato salad, and another can’t find her Christmas carol playlist (equal parts classic hymns and Michael Bublé). One cousin explains the truth of Father Christmas to the family baby, while a third compares their number of presents to everyone else’s, and a fourth has brought a new boyfriend fully hatched from the shire. There’s an uncle who’s spent the last month emailing How To Make The Perfect Turkey hacks, only to find out your parents have bought a pre-cooked turkey from Hartlief.

The Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is the cool older cousin who walks into this mayhem and is the balm to your strained soul. Her hoop earrings glinting in the sun, she is the safe golden corner you retreat to on the stoep to the background discussion on whether the oven could have fit an entire turkey.

With her intriguing initial struck match reductiveness and crisp yet oh-so-soft cling peach syrupy lightness, the Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is effortless. A long-time subscriber of Architectural Digest and buyer of freshly cut flowers, her Spotify Wrapped personality was The Early Adopter (you instantly followed her top five artists who will become your top five next year). Even her hand-me-down Carrol Boyes serving spoons are a level of chic you aspire to. Like the MELI-FALI solo (are those wind chimes? A glockenspiel marimba? Musical bicycle spokes?), just when you thought you’d put your finger on her x-factor, she hits you with an unexpected salty grapefruit pithiness that you are 100% here for.

Pair with: Inevitably someone at the Christmas table will debate the Harry & Meghan Netflix documentary, mention Eskom, or complain about the starting salary demands of Gen Zs. When that happens, the Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is your escape or blessed distraction, pleasing everyone from your uncle who fancies himself a connoisseur because he drank Chateau Libertas in the ‘90s to your Sauvignon Blanc and ice loving auntie.

 

Morgenster Lourens River Valley

 

Morgenster
Lourens River Valley
2015
Stellenbosch 

It’s like a scene out of Mad Men. A smokey bar, live jazz band in the corner, leather booths. You look up from your martini and make eye contact with the Morgenster Lourens River Valley through the haze of cigar smoke. I imagine it’s what making eye contact with Don Draper would be like (minus the misogyny and undoubtedly unwieldy underwear from the 1950s). And just like that, you’re swept up in a black and white romance movie, complete with kisses in the rain and slow dances that somehow involve spinning around a lamppost under the full moon. Lonely trumpet player in a doorway mandatory. 

Drinking the Lourens River Valley is like peeling off a crisp white shirt (preferably someone else’s). With a nose of boozy chocolate covered cherries and black forest gateau, there’s a seductiveness to this wine, like the feeling of silk against freshly shaven legs. Expect car doors to be opened for you and offers of suit jackets still warm with body heat when you’re cold. The Lourens River Valley’s all about that old-timey chivalry. 

Pair with: Midnight dates that end in brass beds with twisted white sheets and chocolate covered strawberries. Romantic clichés and red nail polish recommended. 

 

Spider Pig Bro/Zay Rosé

 

Spider Pig Wine 
Bro/Zay Rosé
2019
Western Cape
 

A couple of months ago, I went to Spider Pig’s warehouse sale, assuring my roommates I would “just buy a bit of wine for the house”. Fast forward a few tastings (read: many, many glasses) and a couple of hours later (read: 2am), a massive bolt of The Fear (a type of fear that only occurs when lying in a horizontal position, usually between 1am-4am, and definitely after four drinks) caused my kidneys to shoot into adrenal overdrive, almost levitating me from the mattress. I made some hasty calculations and desperately scrolled for my latest bank balance, for lo: I had indeed done the thing. The Fear rubbed its hands in glee. While I won’t go into specific figures, I spent the next two days desperately selling off most of the wine I’d bought… and I still had five cases left. Three of which were Spider Pig Bro/Zay Rosé.

So let’s set the scene: 

If James Corden and Chris Pratt had a love child, it would be the Bro/Zay Rosé. It’s a wine that comes with as much peacock energy as it does Peter Pan syndrome… and it’s just so much fun. A full shebang of strawberries and cranberry fruit juice do a little dance on your tastebuds, reminding you equally of rose petals and childhood sweets from the 90s, specifically the foot lollipop you dipped into a packet of sherbet. Then, just when you thought it was a good for good times only kinda guy, that core of salinity just glides on through, reminding you that it will pick you up from the airport any time, just say the word. Yes, it probably gets 10% drunker than it should on a weeknight, and yes, it will probably tie its tie around its head Rambo style, but it will always tell the best jokes at the party, baby. 

Pair with: Dudes playing ultimate frisbee in the park (I’m not entirely sure what ultimate frisbee is exactly, but it sounds precisely like something the Bro/Zay Rosé would commit to 100%, while wearing a matching head and wrist sweatband set). There will be war cries.    

 

AA Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc

 

AA Badenhorst
Secateurs Chenin Blanc
2021
Swartland

There are a few survival items I require in my fridge at all times or risk meltdown: cream cheese, bread, coffee, eggs, fresh herbs, peppermint tea and a bottle of Secateurs Chenin Blanc. Why, do you ask? Well, other than my clear breakfast food dependency and loose categorisation of fridge items, I am a firm believer in the importance, nay, the necessity of a go-to, look-at-that-it’s-already-chilled bottle of wine. 

The Secateurs Chenin Blanc is the friend you can take to any party and not have to babysit because you know they’ll have an entire corner belly laughing at some anecdote in the time it takes you to have a pee and cigarette break. With its nose of white flowers and drippy lazy afternoon sunshine, and an unmistakable tinned Koo peaches palate that gives over to a slight orange peel bitterness just before you thought the sweetness would get to you, the Secateurs Chenin Blanc is what running-towards-each-other-in-slow-motion-across-a-meadow montages were made for. 

Pair with: There are some wines that defy the art of pairing. Not because they don’t work with anything, but because they simply go with everything. Movie nights, beach weekends, Tuesdays, Stan Getz, chicken mayo toasties. Don’t try too hard. This wine’s got you. 

 

Lubanzi Rainboat Pét-Nat

 

Lubanzi
Rainboat Pét-Nat
NV
Swartland

Picture a converted industrial loft, exposed brick work, bare bulbs, a scattering of delicious monsters and other plants I’d probably kill from equal parts over-love and neglect. There’s a row of sourdough starters on the windowsill, a framed Chet Baker poster on the wall, a wardrobe filled with knee-high socks and gold-rimmed aviators (lens-less) on the nightstand. Behold, for we have entered the flat of the Lubanzi Rainboat Pét-Nat.

Cloudy pink with a generous lees sediment and made from organic Cinsault grapes (naturally), the Rainboat is a fresh explosion of newly brewed kombucha with whirls of apple cider vinegar and a dash of balsamic glazed strawberries. Yes, this might be the type of wine to bang out its shopping list on an old typewriter (painstakingly copied from its iPhone’s Notes app), tell you about the new Ayurvedic way of life, and owns a “You are not a baby cow” T-shirt, but with its sharp sherbet tang, mature saltiness and bang of a fizzy mousse, it’s a wine you can’t help but lean in closer and breathe: “interesting… tell me more.” 

Pair with: The wine you’d be drinking at a brunch and improv event, whilst discussing the ethical dilemma of Birkenstock-wearing vegans.

 

Cape of Good Hope Laing Semillon

 

Cape of Good Hope
Laing Semillon 
2019
Citrusdal Mountain

There’s a restaurant in Stellenbosch where the waiters will bring me a bottle of Cape of Good Hope Laing Semillon without me asking. Not because I’m some high-powered asshole in a power suit (though, seriously, I long for a power suit that doesn’t make me look like a shoulder-padded extra from 9 to 5), but because I order it every damn time I’m there and they’re saving themselves the walk. It’s a win-win. 

It’s a tough wine to pin down, the Laing Semillon. Not because it’s layered in ineffable complexity that makes you want to climb up the rim of the glass, nose dive in and breaststroke laps around the bowl before eventually coming up with some vague synesthesia of childhood similes (which I do), but because the bottle variation for this wine is mind boggling.

However, no matter its many forms, the Laing Semillon smells overwhelmingly like my grandmother’s guava pudding with whiffs of old lady gooseberry and whipped egg white peaks. It’s ‘70s nostalgia in a bottle, where everything has that slight drenched-in-yellow-sunlight glow (because I’m a product of my generation and think in Instagram filters). It’s the era of tinted sunglasses, of dudes with chest hair in open paisley shirts and hip-hugging bell bottoms smoking joints, when yellow and brown was an acceptable colour palette, and gelatine a salad ingredient. Just when you’ve enveloped yourself in that sugar-coated green sparkler syrupyness, wham!, that twangy acidity pours through with a prickle of freshly crushed nettles with the bell-like clarity of Marlena Shaw’s backup singers. 

Will I get sick of this wine now that I’ve ordered myself three cases? Possibly. But considering that my grandmother stopped making her guava pudding ca 2009, I’ll take my indulgences where I can.  

Pair with: The first warm days in spring that smell like school holidays, when you can actually wear shorts in the shade without getting goosebumps and you realise there’s a good chance you might be recovering from seasonal affective disorder. Chunky sunglasses essential. 

 

Intelligo Wines The Pink Moustache

 

Intelligo Wines
The Pink Moustache
(too much fun was had to note the vintage…)
Swartland

The Pink Moustache is that hipster — the kind who uses moustache wax and looks like he just walked off of Portugal. The Man’s Feel It Still music video, possibly still in his white-on-white dungaree ensemble — that hipster. You make eye contact with him across the dance floor and you know. You. Hipster man. Those speedo briefs he’s probably wearing under that white-on-white denim. It. Is. ON. Will you exchange numbers? Names? Unlikely. Maybe it’s that fruit juice colour, or the label that makes you think of the Maybelline mascara you bought in high school, but this is the perfect one-night stand wine you do for the entertainment thrill factor of it all. 

Stick your nose into The Pink Moustache’s glassy armpit, and you’re hit with that pheromone packed muskiness, hints of cologne laced with pink peppercorns and just that slight whiff of natural wine funk. Yet the mouthfeel is unexpectedly fresh and bright, with a crisp acidity prickling with red fizz pop sherbet, cherries, pink lady apples and roses. It’s a wine as nimble as hipster man’s aerobic Birkenstock-clad dance moves.   

While this might have started off as the once-off you did for the anecdote, this is a wine that makes you question your initial — perhaps harsh — judgements. He’s the kind of guy with freshly laundered sheets that makes you breakfast the next day with ethically-sourced artisan coffee and a croissant he picked up at the French patisserie (obviously he lives above a French patisserie). It might not be love, but it sure exceeds the single note you’d anticipated.  

Pair with: The wine you pick up after leaving the hipster’s flat on the way to your best friend’s house to divulge blow by blow details of said one-night stand, strutting down the street à la Joseph Gordon-Levitt in 500 Days of Summer complete with flash mob and animated bluebird. Or, alternatively, at a theatre bar about to watch some interpretive dance with moustachioed hipster after you agree to extend this to a two, possibly three-night arrangement.